Sunday, July 8, 2012

Ladies Wrap #0400

The Ladies Wrap #0400 is a very interesting project.  I made the wrap of beige silk with a peach over lay of lace.

The instruction indicated the bust size was 36 inch, so I enlarge the pattern to a 39 inch bust.  I added 1 1/2 inches  by cutting the original pattern and spreading.  With a French curve the added 1 1/2 inches was blended in.

The original computer pattern before cutting and spreading.

The enlarged pattern with the left and right tie laid out on 60 inch wide silk.  I cut both the lining and the under lace facing of the same silk.

You can see here, the lace, silk, and the white cotton inter facing fabric, which is treated as one unite, to from the top layer of the wrap.

The lining is sewn to the top fashion fabric, the seams clipped and graded for smooth turning and pressing.

The lace edging is removed from the fabric in preparation for use as the finished trim for the wrap.

The lace is hand sewn to the edge of the wrap and the corners are adjusted to fit the finished edge, with small seams.

The lace trim is added to the ends of the right and left tie.  A rosette was made of the edge trim lace for the finish of the front.

Hook and Eyes are added to the front for the closure.

The back of the wrap.  The lace trim was adjusted to lay flat and the points of the warp adjusted to form a smooth and pleasing appearance.

The finished wrap.  

The wrap fits, and  is pleasing to look at.  The skill level is intermediate.  Lining the wrap made the finishing of the garment clean and fuss free.  The corners of the lace trim needed to be worked with to keep the curve of the lace equal at each point. Next I am going to make the Mature Women hat to match.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

March Hat Challenge

In March, Kim, gave us the  "March challenge"  for an Easter hat.

The instruction for the hat were interesting to say the least.  A picture and the measurements for the hat,  lower circumference of 31½  inches, upper circumference of 23 5/8 inches , front height, 7½ inches,  and back height of 8 5/8 inches, with the head entry circumference of 20½ inches.  The width of the inside portion of the frame that sits on the head 2¾ inches.

With the measurement given on the challenge pattern, I laid out the pattern on old wrapping paper. Misty, my cat, was a lot of help.

After cutting the pattern out I  used buckram for the construction of the hat .

Pinned the buckram together to check the dimensions of the hat and to see if the design would worked.

Folded the buckram 2 3/4 inches to from the frame that sits on the head, then cut slits, on the folded edge, and overlapped the cut edges to reduce the lower circumference to 20 1/2 inches.

Cut a circle of buckram to form the top of the hat and hand stitched to sides to form crown. Floral wire was used to reinforce the crown and lower edge of the hat.
Covered the crown with black satin, draped the sides with black satin and black lace, and finished the inside with black satin.

Collapsed the front of the hat to 2 1/2 inches and added peacock feathers and a gold medallion to finish the front.

My first 1912 hat. 

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

1912 Princess Slip


My first blog ever.  The week before my birthday the mailman surprised me with this lovely package for the Princess Slip pattern.  I was so excited to get my first challenge  pattern.  For the first few day it just laid on my cutting table waiting for the lace, fabric and buttons. 
The pattern needed to be altered for comfort and ease of movement for my body.  The fashions of the day are great, but this body will not fit in to there standard patterns.
The fabric used in the slip is a cotton/poly blend broadcloth, with three different designs of eyelet lace trim.

I did not use vintage sewing techniques or hand sewing, but the overall finished garment, I think, is quite pleasing to look at, and will wear very well.
The buttons used to finish the back are vintage white shell from my stash of vintage buttons.  It is fun to finally use the buttons on a nice piece.

The bottom of the slip is finished in 1 inch knife pleats with the eyelet lace insert, again I used modern sewing technique .
My next project will be the March challenge hat.  I look forward to a new adventure.